Kali's Travels

Today is Remembrance Day, a day for the world to commemorate the sacrifices made by those who served in times of conflict. This day will be particularly significant for the 2010 ANZAC scholars, as we will reflect on our own experiences on the battlefields visited during the tour.

It’s hard to articulate exactly how this trip has changed and developed my knowledge of and respect for our ANZACs. It was the ultimate lesson in the most crucial chapter of our country’s history, incorporating factual and emotional elements, bringing the numerical statistics and landscapes into a tangible context.

Throughout the trip we were told tales of heartbreaking tragedy and unfathomable heroism, usually as we were standing at the site of their occurrence. To stand above the grave of an Australian soldier buried in the now peaceful fields of Belgium and Northern France, to read their name, age and sometimes a message left by their loved ones truly reinforces the reality of war and the immense impact it had on everyone’s lives. I felt so fortunate and grateful to have been involved in this experience, and I will do my best to communicate the values and knowledge gained from the trip to as many people as possible.

My father was able to re-establish contact with his university friends Brian and Judy Waterford whilst fossicking for sapphires in the Inverell District. It was during this time that we became aware of the story of the Kurrajongs through the publication “A Fine Body of Men”, published by the Inverell District Family History Group Inc. As a result, it was decided to pay tribute to this fine body of men by taking a gem that represented their country and their sacrifice. A red zircon was provided by the very considerate and generous Merv and John Wallburn, well known Inverell identities who operate Inishowen Resources Pty Ltd Inverell Blue Sapphire. Kerry Hall of Inverell Jewellers provided the facilities resources and advice on the gemstones. Debbie Rester, the talented and highly regarded gem cutter, extracted the full beauty of the gemstone. The stone was set into a sterling silver ring by a local jeweller.

This ring was to represent the hardness of the Inverell men, their strength and purity and the red symbolised the blood they spilt in these foreign lands. A connection was established and respect shown at the headstones of the soldiers when the ring was touched above the name of each soldier.

I would like to thank all those who contributed to the trip and gave me support and encouragement along the way; Jude and Checka for all of their brilliant organisation and constant help and assistance, Don Rowe and Darren Mitchell for their wonderful insights and contributions, Brad for sharing his abundant knowledge and intellect and for bringing the battlefields and their personalities alive, Richard for his valuable French skills and enthusiasm, John and Phillipa for ensuring the organisation and comfort of all the students, Stan for delivering us safely to or amazing destinations, the parents of the students for instilling such wonderful values in your children, my own parents and family for teaching me the importance of history and respectful commemoration, David Ardley for giving me the opportunity and encouragement to apply for this scholarship, Ray Petts for allowing me the honour of learning about his heroic grandfather, Rohan for all his technical assistance and giving me the opportunity to share my experiences with everyone, all those who read and commented on this blog and of course to my wonderful fellow scholars, thank you for your companionship, intelligence and maturity and for making this trip that extra bit spectacular.

Today was our final full day of the trip. We set out in the morning on our bus tour of the most prominent sites in Paris. Isabelle, our guide, took us to places such as the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre Museum, Notre Dame and the Arc de Triomphe, providing historical background and fascinating information along the way.

We then stopped for a completely underwhelming lunch before heading off into the Musée de l’Armée (Military Museum). In here we saw a diverse range of militaristic uniforms and weapons from the First and Second World Wars.

After this we walked over to visit Napoleon’s Tomb. This was a truly grand and awe inspiring place, built on a large scale but with such attention to intricate detail and symbolism.

We then had time to go souvenir shopping in some of the countless dodgy stores, buying trinkets for those back home.

Later this evening we walked through the beautiful Magasin Au Printemps towards our restaurant for our final group dinner. After a lovely meal, nearly everyone gave a speech, expressing their gratitude and personal reflections. We all feel very lucky to have been a part of this experience, and to have had such excellent company along the way.

I best get some sleep now, in preparation for our long flight tomorrow. I will be glad to finally come home and settle back into my more relaxed routine, but I will also be sad to leave this beautiful place, where we have learnt so much and created so many fond memories that will endure throughout our lifetimes.

I will be writing again after we get back to Australia, so watch this space for further updates.

I look forward seeing all family members coming to the airport soon, including mine I suppose 😀

Farewell for the moment,

Kali

Today was spent exploring the wonderful abundance of culture to be found within Paris.

We started of the day with a visit to the Palace of Versailles, a place that I have always been very eager to visit. After studying the Kings of France and the French Revolution earlier this year, my interest in this place has doubled, and I was very excited to recognise the actual paintings that I had previously studied in class. This site was also where the Treaty of Versailles was signed, signalling an end to World War One.

After a brief lunch, we headed back toward Paris to visit the Louvre Museum. Unfortunately, we were not able to spend much time here, however, we did manage to see some very famous artworks, including Venus de Milo, the Winged Victory and of course, Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa.

From here we split into two groups; half of us heading toward the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Latin district of Paris, the others heading off in search of food and souvenirs. I chose to go with the former group, with the first stop being a wonderful Medieval Museum. We all admired the beautiful and intricate works, especially Phillipa, who has a particular interest in medieval history.

 After this we walked back to the Notre Dame Cathedral, where we were lucky enough to catch the beginnings of a mass. I myself am not a religious person, but there is no denying that this place has a very strong sense of spirituality about it.

Later this evening we all travelled on Le Metro to the Eiffel Tower, where we went in separate groups to the summit of one of the world’s most recognisable structures. The views of Paris at night were absolutely spectacular and in spite of all the wind and rain we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

We finally met up with the other group after waiting below for around half an hour. In this time we were approached by countless souvenir merchants, having to repeat each time, “Non, merci”.

We made it back to the hotel at a rather late hour, and by the looks of all the scholars, we will appreciate a good night’s sleep when we come home soon.

There’s more sightseeing in store for tomorrow, and don’t worry family, I’ll try and buy you all something nice.

Having the time of my life,

Kali

Yesterday and today have been stark contrasts to the relaxed day spent in Bayeux.

Yesterday’s activities were centred around the D-Day Landings of World War Two. We began by watching the opening scenes from the movie ‘Saving Private Ryan’, then stepped out onto the setting of its horrific content, Omaha Beach. Our guide for the day, Stuart, explained the planning and emotions surrounding the events with much detail, giving us an enhanced understanding of this crucial chapter of history.

Again, like so many other battlefields, this once hellish place is now an area of peace and tranquillity. Gentle waves licked the shore and a man rode by on his horse-drawn cart, but with Stuarts descriptions and a bit of imagination, we were able to attain a sense of the immense gravity of these past events.

Form here we journeyed to Point Du Hoc. This coastal area was the position of six large German guns. The American soldiers scaled the rocky cliffs to reach this place, eventually capturing the ground and making subsequent crucial discoveries. Vast craters and bunkers were scattered all over the area, highlighting the scale on which such battles were fought.

After Point du Hoc we travelled to the famous Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial where over 9000 American soldiers lay in graves marked by marble crosses. The cemetery was quite breathtaking, due to its sheer immensity and beautiful coastal location. These factors inspired deep reflection from me and certainly all others present.

We then jumped back on the coach and made our way along the Norman coastline to the sea side town of Arromanches where the British built an artificial harbour to provide supplies to the allied advance. The remnants of the harbour still remain and our tour guide explained to us why it was an instrumental component of the D Day assault. After this we took some time to pause for lunch and buy souvenirs.

After this we got back on to our coach and continued east along to coast toward a town where our tour guide told us the story about a British Soldier, Stan Hollis who had won a Victoria Cross. After this we made our way to Pegasus Bridge which was captured by Allied soldiers to ensure the British advance out of the Sword beach landing site. Three gliders carrying men had landed there behind German lines to ensure the bridge was not damaged when the allies came through.

On our way out of Normandy, we stopped briefly at the Bayeux Memorial Cemetery, where we paid our respects to two Australians who we managed to find in a predominantly British cemetery; Flight Sergeant M.R. Burgess and Pilot Officer R.G. Ward.

We then spent the next few hours travelling to Paris on our last coach trip with our wonderful driver Stan, whom we said our goodbyes to this morning. To show our appreciation for his excellent driving and companionship, Nikki bought him a lighter with the words “Dancing Machine” written across it. I’m fairly sure he loved it.

Sorry I haven’t been posting as regularly, I haven’t had internet access for the last few days. This was written two days ago:

Today was probably our most relaxed day yet. We spent the majority of the day in transit, leaving Albert early in the morning for Bayeux. The bus trip took us through many farms and small towns of France, whilst many of us took the opportunity to catch up on some sleep. After finally arriving at our destination, we walked through the streets of the beautiful Bayeux, stopping occasionally to buy souvenirs or grab something to eat.

We then entered a nearby museum, where we observed a medieval tapestry, depicting the rise of William the Conqueror with intricate detail. The piece was over 70 metres long and dates back to the 11th century. It was astounding to learn of the history behind this artwork and the meaning found within certain parts.

The group had free time to wander the streets after this visit. In this time I was able to feast on the world’s most delicious chocolate crepe and buy myself a jacket.

Tomorrow we head off to the beaches of Normandy to learn about the D-Day landings and World War Two history within the area before driving back to Paris, where we will spend our last night’s of the tour.

Write to you soon from Paris,

Kali

Yesterday began with a brief visit to the Island of Ireland Peace Park before departing for a place of great significance for me, Westhof Farm Cemetery. Buried here is a family connection of mine (my brother’s godfather’s grandfather) Lieutenant Norman John Browne, or “Jack” as he was known by his mates. I began researching Jack in year 9 for a school project and soon came to feel a certain connection with and understanding of him.

We arrived at the peaceful and secluded Westhof Farm Cemetery, a rather small plot but with completely picturesque surroundings. It didn’t take long for me to find Jack’s headstone, upon which I found the phrase “In sure and certain hope of a glorious resurrection” inscribed.

I was overcome with far more emotion than I had anticipated as I read to the group accounts of his fine character and tragic death. It really did mean so much to me, to be able to stand on the site of his grave and ensure that he is not forgotten, and I am truly grateful to Brad, Richard and Stan for taking the time to bring us all there.

As we left the cemetery gates and were seated on the bus, we soon realised that the engine was not working. A small group of us wandered about, trying to fill in some of the waiting time. When we returned we learnt that Brad had discovered in Westhof Farm Cemetery, the remains of a soldier from Hay, Dylan’s small home town. When our “rescue vehicle” finally did arrive, the bus was promptly fixed but then, in a cruel twist of irony, the truck itself became bogged and needed to be towed out of the mud by our bus.

After a good three hours, we finally left Westhof Farm to continue with the days plans. We then travelled to Trois Abres Cemetery, to pay respects to Phillipa’s great uncle Alf.

After pausing here for a moment of reflection and remembrance, we travelled to the new Pheasant Wood Cemetery in Fromelles. It was a truly beautiful area, with the messages on the gravestones of these recently identified soldiers being particularly notable and poignant. It was here that I placed a rock from the Blue Mountains given to me by my wonderful teacher Mr Ardley on the grave of an unknown Australian soldier. It was a wonderfully thoughtful of him, as that soldier now has a symbolic connection to his homeland.

We departed the cemetery and drove down the road to the dramatic Cobbers statue, where Brad explained to us the magnitude of devastation felt from the Battle of Fromelles.

Next stop was Beaumont, where Jason and I scattered the remaining ashes from the stars of remembrance and Josh became enamoured with the local cows.

We arrived here, at our hotel in Albert, where we experienced a wonderful dinner (accompanied by my new favourite drink, Orangina) and got a good night’s sleep in preparation for today’s busy schedule.

Today, we managed to fit all major components of The Somme into a space of several hours. We visited around 20 separate destinations, beginning with the breathtaking Lochnagar Mine Crater.

 We then proceeded to Gordon Dump, to visit James Jacobs, a very young soldier whom Dylan had researched. James hailed from Dylans hometown and had run away from home and lied about his age in order to join the war effort. As Brad and Don Rowe explained, underage soldiers were far from uncommon; I noticed dozens of young boys within each cemetery throughout the day, some of them who died were only my brother’s age and sometimes younger.

We visited many other significant sites throughout the day, including Pozieres, the 1st Division Memorial, the Windmill and Tank memorials, Mouquet Farm, Newfoundland Park and the Victoria School.

 Particularly impactful though, were our visits to Thiepval and Villers-Bretonneux. We were surrounded by a thick fog all throughout the day, but it was most dramatic, mysterious and beautiful at Thiepval. This change in the natural environment allowed for enhanced reflection as the scholars and I gazed out upon the French and Australians graves.

At Villers-Bretonneux, the fog was still present, thought dying away slightly by this time of day. From the top of the tower we were able to see a great deal of the surrounding countryside. Once we climbed down the numerous stairs, we remembered Stephen Lonergan, a connection of Laura’s, whose name we found on the wall of the monument, indicating that his body was either never found or properly identified.

At the end of the day, many of us were excited to try escargot for the first time. Laura couldn’t quite get her head around the concept of eating snails but bravely proceeded to eat 3 or 4 of them.

Until next time,

Kali

Yesterday the group experience Life at the Front. We drove to the museum at Zonnebeke where we met Jacques, who would be accompanying us for the rest of the day. After a tour of the museum and a thorough explanation of the Battles of Ypres, Jacques took us to be changed into our full military uniforms. Leaders were elected, with Lieutenant McKinnon and Sergeants Trevaskis and Keough doing a fine job throughout the day. We loaded the heavy gear onto our bodies then dined on a fine meal of bully beef (I couldn’t recognise anything remotely like beef in mine).

We trekked for miles, Jacques explaining in great detail the strategical progression and personal stories of the Australian soldiers along the way. It was a truly exciting and surreal experience for the scholars, to be walking in the footsteps of our ANZACs and in such similar conditions. It even began to rain on us when we entered Tyne Cot Cemetery, which most of us agreed further “authenticated the experience”.

Tyne Cot Cemetery was extremely beautiful; the birds chirping and the wind gently shaking through the long grass made it seem worlds away from the hellish conditions found there in the past. Here we visited the grave of Captain Clarence Jeffries, V.C. Brad and Jess told us his story, before extremely heavy rains fell down upon us.

It was one of our most fulfilling days, and I’m sure I can safely say it was a highlight for all scholars, including myself.

We started off today with a visit to the Hooge Crater Museum. Here we saw a vast array of wartime artefacts, including shell cases, rifles, letters, uniforms and even a pair of dentures. We then walked across the road to the Hooge Crater Cemetery, where most of us were struck by the single graves marked “Three Soldiers From The Great War”, “Five Soldiers From The Great War” and so on. Brad took us down the back of the cemetery to the grave of Paddy Bugden, V.C.  where he told us of this soldiers valiant offensive and defensive actions during war.

We then visited Polygon Wood Cemetery, for our commemorative service of the anniversary of the Battle of Polygon Wood. Whilst here, Cassie and I both remarked on how strange it is for a place that was once so devastated to now be so peaceful and beautiful. We both agreed however, that this is how the ANZACs would have wanted it to be, and that it is a fitting place for their eternal rest. It was here that we observed the graves of five Australian soldiers, who were recently discovered during road construction in Belgium. Three of the five were able to be identified through DNA testing; Sergeant Calder, Private Storey, and Private Hunter, and now lie in proper identified graves.

From here we trekked through mud and hail to the cafe of local amateur archaeologist and historian Johan. After downing one of his delicious hot chocolates, we watched a video on the wartime photographer Frank Hurley, then another on the discovery of the five men. Johan told us in great detail of the excavations, in particular the impact of the discovery of John Hunter, whose body had been very well preserved when his twin brother had buried him. The body was so well preserved in fact, that Johan could even make out the colour of John Hunters eyes. He is planning on making another visit to Australia soon to follow in the footsteps of this Australian soldier.

Next we visited the now infamous Hill 60. The land is still filled with dips and craters, but it is covered in green vegetation, so a relative idea of the underground explosions that occurred in the area can still be attained. The group walked over to The Caterpillar, where Nicky and Erica scattered ashes of cremated stars of remembrance on behalf of the group.

This afternoon, we visited the Canadian memorial at St Julien and also the German Cemetery at Langemarck which, as you can see from the photos, are very dissimilar in terms of design and layout.

Tonight we visited the Menin Gate for our second service. A military tattoo had just performed in town and consequently, three bands played at this evenings ceremony. Again, it was a very moving experience and at the end, the group were fortunate enough to meet Dr. Brendan Nelson, who is currently the Australian Ambassador to Belgium.

We say goodbye to Belgium tomorrow and leave for northern France. I will be sad to leave this beautiful country, with its excellent chocolates and rich prevalence of history within everyday life.

Will write again soon,

Kali

We started off the day with a brief visit to the Menin Gate. Brad explained the background and significance of the site and also told us some soldier’s personal stories. From here we walked to the Cloth Hall, where we met our historian/ tour guide Anne Sophie. She told us and a class from the local Immaculata School about specific aspects of the First World War, showing us artefacts such as newspaper excerpts, helmets, grenades and gas masks.

We then followed the students back to their school, where we were met with much enthusiasm (Jason in particular). We chatted with the students, who were very curious about kangaroos and learnt a lot about each other and our respective cultures.

After exchanging farewells, we walked back to the Cloth Hall and entered the In Flanders Fields Museum. The tour inside the museum was very engaging, informing us of the impact on the lives of all those living and fighting in Ieper at the time of war and also how it affected the land.

Later this evening, we attended the Menin Gate Commemoration Ceremony. It was a truly moving experience for all, with a tattoo band in place of the usual lone piper. Zac and Laura laid a wreath on behalf of the group and the New South Wales Government. Afterwards, two of the Gates official representatives spoke to us about how and when the gate was made and the significance behind it.

All of the group are excited for our Life at the Front day tomorrow.

Will write again soon,

Kali

All of the scholars congregated at the Mercure Hotel near the international airport on Tuesday for all necessary finalisation before the events that we had all been anticipating for nearly a year. The flight was rather tedious but there was still a great sense of excitement amongst the group when we landed in Paris.

From the airport, we drove to the hotel where we took much needed showers before venturing outside to experience one of the world’s greatest cities. We were all amazed by the architecture, that is something unique and enchanting about Europe.  

Richard, our wonderful English tour manager took us on a walking tour where we saw many cafes, boulangeries, and patisseries and other more significant sites including Place de la Concord, the Champs Elysees, the Seine River and our first glimpses of the Eiffel Tower.

Later that night, we ventured down the road to a beautiful restaurant, dining on turine, fish and ice-cream.

Today, we left Paris and headed north, to the town of Peronne, learning along the way of the significant Australian involvement in the area. We then drove to Mont St Quentin, where we stopped by at the Australian 2^nd Division Memorial and walked through a forested area, viewing the remnants of trenches. It was here that we attained a relative sense of the natural factors surrounding conflict in such areas; the ground was spongy and soft and as soon as it began to rain, mud appeared almost everywhere.

From here we travelled to a site of particular significance for Josh. Several years ago, he began researching Reginald A. Hast and through much extensive research, gained a personal connection and was able share with us his background and wartime experiences.

We then arrived here in Ypres, walking past some beautiful chocolate shops (that I must visit later) and briefly visiting the Menin Gate. Dinner this evening was also rather fantastic; cheese salad followed by salmon and chocolate mousse for dessert.

We were given an overview from Brad of the sites we will be visiting tomorrow, including a local school.

So far, this has been a truly astounding experience, we are all in love with the local cultures and general atmospheres of the places we have visited.

Shall write again when possible,

Kali